On this post, I am not going to misspell two most used words in my vocabulary.

I’m thrilled to have helped a friend unlock the door to a dream location. The desert, the La Paz Sand Dunes, is no secret, but finding this raw, unspoilt beauty in the rugged nooks and crannies of the vast sandy territory is a whisper from the heavens. Will write more about it soon.

(Clockwise) Blue Velvet, Aztec Chili Chocolate, Tsoknut (with Peanut Butter filling), Mint Chocolate Chip.

Omg! Ericke brought home these heavenly Leila’s Cupcakes from Leila’s Cafe (Vigan). She got me an Aztec chili chocolate, but shared the 2 boxes with us, so we got to try several flavors. Mine was extra fudgy with a hint of chili. I love the frosting! Leila’s is not shy about frostings. The buttercream that covered the blue velvet (that looked more green to me) was yummy-lovely. I like the novelty and nostalgia of the tsoknut presentation, a homage to the oldest Filipino peanut chocolate.

I’ve heard about the creperie/breakfast/sandwich place before, in fact, we were trying to locate it the last time we hied off to Vigan, but luck was not on our side. Anyway, I checked out their Facebook page and their menu is really interesting. Found calamay *smile*, pastillas, leche flan leilaccino (frappuccino), savory and sweet crepes, fish and chips, Edu Mansanas French toastwich, and a lot of desserts, there you go. Hope to be able to visit the cafe soon. Good to know Laoag residents can have a taste of their cupcakes.

Have a happy weekend!

© Blauearth™ All Rights Reserved 2009-2012

When it comes to street names in Vigan, I’m admittedly uncultured. The world-famous Calle Crisologo is the only Vigan Street I know — that is why it took me a coon’s age to locate Leila’s Cafe, home of Leila’s Cupcakes, which I wrote about (here) two months ago.

You won’t miss the cafe’s inviting red doors if you’re strolling around the touristy district.

The tastefully decorated interiors, done in a sort of shabby-but-elegant way, create an altogether warm and cozy feel — like a breath of fresh air in the old-world town (though it’s really a city now).

While waiting for the hubby’s arroz a la Cubana and my baconator (bacon and corn) crepe, we shared a masa pudrida, a plain shortbread with a crumbly-flaky texture that’s tasty and would go nicely with coffee. I got a little frustrated ‘coz the Leilaccinos were not available. But anyways, our brunch was filling and had us covered till Baguio:)

Leila’s Cafe Gen. Luna St.(in between Calle Crisologo and V. de los Reyes St.), Vigan, Ilocos Sur, Philippines Te; No.: 077 722 8110 Check out their Facebook page.

Photographed by Blauearth © Blauearth™ All Rights Reserved 2009-2012

I first heard of this “native resto” from the hubby. Following in his footsteps is wonted.

We actually got famished on our way home from San Juan. The Savellano-owned Cabugao restaurant is a good roadside eatery, located between Laoag and Vigan, serving old time favorites packed with local flavors. The ambiance is suggestive of an Ilocano ranch-style home.

-I especially loved the wicked opia a la mode, a simple dessert of vanilla ice cream on a sweet crackling fan-shaped barquillo down a stream of chocolate syrup.

-Pindang is a local term for dried fish. This kind is atypically not salty, nice with sukang Iloko sawsawan (Ilocano vinegar).

-(Clockwise) Ilocos longaniza (Ilocano sausage links), garlic mushrooms, Pinoy pork BBQ, miki (soup). The longaniza were tiny, really bitin. The hearty miki was huge, though, that I had to share it with the hubby.

The service was good, quick, and for the boozers, brown bottle is cheap. Warning: Don’t drink and drive.

Kusina Ilocandia National Highway, Cabugao, Ilocos Sur, Philippines

Photographed by Blauearth © Blauearth™ All Rights Reserved 2009-2012

Shot the sea of surplus in Sto. Domingo, Ilocos Sur. Japanese excess, anyone?

Photographed by Blauearth © Blauearth™ All Rights Reserved 2009-2012

I was born and raised in northern Ilocos. Occasionally, I post about my visits to southern Ilocos.  I am hankering to visit more often to learn more of the other half of the Ilocos equation — its history, culture and the ancient traditions that always fail to be buried with the past.

The old adage holds true: You reap what you sow. The UN Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) recently awarded Vigan, the quintessence of Ilocos Sur, the “Best practice in World Heritage Site Management” in the 40th World Heritage Convention held in Japan. The convention centered around “World Heritage and Sustainable Development: the Role of Local Communities” which gives the award more meat and texture for it manifests the fruition of the local community’s unified struggle in preserving their heritage and defining their identity.

UNESCO describes Vigan as “Established in the 16th century, Vigan is the best-preserved example of a planned Spanish colonial town in Asia. Its architecture reflects the coming together of cultural elements from elsewhere in the Philippines, from China and from Europe, resulting in a culture and townscape that have no parallel anywhere in East and South-East Asia.”

Here are some of the things that are uniquely Ilocos Sur’s.

Tricycles that don’t look like either space ships or lowered sports cars:) Notice the embossed nikelado adornment in both the exteriors of the tricycles and calesa.

The salamagi (tamarind) wine.

The Southern Ilocos cuisine is worth exploring. Among the indigenous fare is sinanglao, a soothing soup of beef innards flavored and tenderized in bile and pias (kamias).

Photographed by Blauearth © Blauearth™ All Rights Reserved 2009-2013

Where in the Philippines can you find a Les Roches-Switzerland and Culinary Institute of America-New York-trained chef de cuisine who matures his own bugguong, using only seasonal taburkik fish and pure Ilocos sea salt, and churns it with a paddle made of a specific kind of wood, as he says, “it has to be molave,” and grows his own epazote, kutchay, karimbuaya, etc., and cooks only RC 160 rice?

“The enigma of my life,” Chef Peter Nic Rodriguez starts off after I pop the initial question, “Why Ilocos?”

When I left Candon at the age of 8, I told my yaya, “Uray kitam, agsubli ak tu.” Sure enough, he arrives home to put meaning into his realm of cooking.

With a passion to the core of his being, Chef Nic Rodriguez runs his own Bistro Candon Resto and Catering specializing in genuine Ilocano cuisine in the company of universal favorites. With all his credentials on the wall, he keeps his insanity sane, so to speak, by constantly developing new recipes and planning and servicing a most diverse clientele. He’s done spreads for high profile weddings across Ilocos, along with intimate and village gatherings. Tourists from neighboring cities go out of their way to seek Chef Nic’s sanglao, dinengdeng, pinakbet, lomo-lomo, doy-doy/diniydoy, morton/morcon and bagnet (descibed as nasisi nga usto in the vernacular) and served with the most ambrosial bugguong ever! A saliva-inducing bugguong that triggers the thought of summer Ilocos mangoes dipped in bugguong mixed with extra dark sukang Ilocos! 

“It’s the simplicity,” he counters to my “What sets Ilocano cooking apart from the rest?” Pinakbet is his favorite Ilocano dish while fried vegetable lumpia (spring roll) is his comfort food.

- I’ve been craving for rellenong bangus for about a week now. I was so thrilled to see it in the menu! Brought home all my leftovers for the family.  Back in Laoag, the first time I didn’t hear negativity from a food-know-it-all hubby and son. The carrot cake slathered with authentic standard Swiss buttercream frosting and the decadent old-style chocolate cake fashioned from a 1978 UP recipe, but of course, amplified by Nic’s own gustation, are well-deserving of the accolades from the press.

All the highly esteemed calories were worth all the long hours I spent freezing inside a Partas bus to and from Candon, Ilocos Sur.

*Bistro Candon is located inside the Four Brothers Compound, Candon, Ilocos Sur, Philippines. Open Mon-Sun, 7 AM-6 PM. Tel.Nos.: (077) 7425905 Mobile 09178055500.

Photographed by Blauearth © Blauearth™ All Rights Reserved 2009-2013

If you need to stay in Vigan but won’t consider confining yourself in a room in a centuries-old casa, you just might mull over an alternative accommodation. Casa Teofila Lodge looks more like a huge house, located not too far from the heritage village, about 5 minutes away if you’re taking the tricycle. But we’ll get back to that later.

I met Mary Fe or Mafe Chan Po, the owner of Casa Teofila Lodge at a Red Dot function a couple of months ago and it so happens that my bestie Marianne was a high school classmate of Benjie Po, the husband of Mafe. It was a slow Sunday, so my hubby went with us to the south. It turns out the Chans and Reny’s family are close from way back, especially their moms.

After meeting with the couple at the Red Dot-Vigan, which Mafe also manages, we drove to the hotel for lunch at the Resto Grill, the hotel’s restaurant which is transformed into a bar at night, complete with live acoustic music on Wednesdays and Fridays, and KTV singing on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. Seize the super 5-beer-plus-1 deal for only 200 pesos. Saw the menu and the prices of food are unbelievably low, certainly tourist-friendly! They fed us the house specialties such as sisig, Pinoy BBQ and what they call their Bilao ni Mang Azon; consisting of grilled okra, finger chili, eggplant, squid, liempo, tilapia; fresh pokpoklo, tomatoes and onions; chopped mangoes with bagoong alamang; and red eggs. Loved the hot sinigang na baboy which I ate with patis, yum!

Lovely pinakbet, an Ilocano meal-in-one favorite. I noticed Ilocos Sur’s pinakbet is not so pinakebbet or shriveled, unlike ours in the north. The last I had in Candon looks fairly the same. I prefer the veggies a little hilaw. On the contrary, that won’t be the authentic Ilocano pakbet.

Let’s now talk about lodging. Saw almost all the rooms. Nothing too fancy. There are many to choose from, depending on the budget. They have dormitory rooms which can accommodate up to 10-20 people. They also have air-conditioned ordinary rooms that are low cost. However, they also have newer suites for those who can afford to spend more. The hotel is constantly being renovated a little at a time, says Mafe. Cable TV and WiFi are available.

Frankly, I haven’t experienced spending a night in Vigan, so I’m admittedly not an authority on hotels and inns, etc.. About the food culture in the south…  I’m getting there:)

Casa Teofila Lodge & Resto Grille Pantay Daya, Vigan City, Ilocos Sur
Tel. No.: (077) 722 6482 / CP Nos: (0920) 690 5999 / (0922) 851 3513 / (0935) 190 3688 / (0917) 799 0513

Photographed by Blauearth © Blauearth™ All Rights Reserved 2009-2013

Yesserie, there’s a Red Dot in Vigan! Had loads of fun while taking photos inside the store while Mafe Po’s voice was reberverating within the brick walls. LOL she says she could clearly tell where a girl shopper at her store comes from, if the south or the north, just by hearing her talk or the way she’d hold or scrutinize a dress, or by looking at what she ends up buying. I guess I would be the typical buyer from the north, jeez! Pa-inglis-inglis (but that’s because my mom used to be an English teacher and our tongues were trained to talk the way she wanted. I swear, up to now, while on the phone she still corrects my Ilocano English! Hey, sis, hahahaha!) And she buys non-conservative things such as shorts. I grew up in shorts and it’s the most comfortable thing to wear in such a hot place as Ilocos, so I never realized it’s atypical:) Anyhoo, Red Dot carries almost all the labels we love at the Red Dot Laoag. Plains and Prints, Gingersnaps for kids, Havaianas, Just G., VNC shoes, Anthology shoes, exclusive Red Dot items, and so much more.

- Dwarfed by tall ladies, Marianne and former United Arab Emirates Airline stewardess Mafe Chan Po. Check out Marianne’s Louis Vuitton Yellow Yayoi Kusama Wave Monogram Canvas Neverfull MM Tote Bag. She had it as a Christmas gift before it got sold out.

Bought the 2 string friendship bracelets in citrusy colors (in the bottom) at the store to remind me of the two nice ladies.

Red Dot Calle Bonifacio corner Calle Gov. A. Reyes, Vigan, Ilocos Sur, Philippines

Photographed by Blauearth © Blauearth™ All Rights Reserved 2009-2013

Vigan’s pride, St. Paul’s Metropolitan Cathedral aka Vigan Cathedral is a fine example of an excellently managed heritage structure, with the Catholic community the equivalent of the Chinese guardian lions (foo dogs) protecting the front doors.

Strengthened with buttresses to be able to withstand earthquakes, the ornate Baroque architecture harmoniously blending with pseudo-Romanesque, neo-Gothic and Chinese influences, shaping one unique composition,  the cathedral is a memorial of the town’s lofty past during the colonial era, relevantly because Villa Fernandina de Vigan has been the seat of the Nueva Segovia Diocese since 1758, illustrating the enormity of Roman Catholicism in the old town.

- Chinese craftsmanship. Many of the illustrious families in Vigan have Chinese or Filipinized Chinese sounding names. On a sidenote, Chinese pirates led by Fukienese Lin Feng aka Limahong were believed to have reached Vigan in 1576. The son of Spanish conquistador Miguel Lopez de Legazpi aka El Adelantado, the first governador general of the Spanish East Indies (known today as the Philippines) is Vigan founder Juan de Salcedo. It was he who vanquished Limahong from Philippine history with his capture and subsequent astounding escape back to China.

- Noticed the foo dogs atop the doors? The Sword of the Spirit at the top represents Saint Paul’s martyrdom in Rome (where he was beheaded by Caesar).

- NO to Black Sand Mining in Ilocos Sur!

- One of the buttresses on the sides of the church, an element of earthquake Baroque architecture.

Fifteen meters afar from the cathedral is the octagonal belltower with a  bronze weathercock on the top.

Grabbed some sinful cakes at the nearby Dulcelise Dessert Bar overlooking the world-famous Calle Crisologo.

- Traffic sighted at Calle Crisologo. Presumably the Ilocos heat.

- Lemon Torte, one of the bar’s best cakes.

Dulcelise’s banoffee pie was creamy, airy (but not like commercialized whipping cream), without that cloying, heavy after feeling. The crust was wonderful, I probably could have easily polished off another one. Tried their Thai iced tea. Imo, it would have been finer if it were served in a tall glass with lots of shaved ice. I dislike the feel of warm liquid, with ice cubes hitting parts of the tongue:(

Oh, the sans rival, buttery, nutty, chewy — perfectly what to bring home to Laoag! Such a fine string of eat, pray, love moments on a Sunday.

Photographed by Blauearth © Blauearth™ All Rights Reserved 2009-2013

Relative to fine, clean and green roads in the north, Marsha’s Delicacies has raised the standard for convenient, easeful pit stops for travelers passing Ilocos. Their well-kept restrooms along with shelves decked out with the Ilocos Region’s cream of the cream have earned the pasalubong shop an enduring beeline since it opened its doors in Cabalanggan, Bantay, Ilocos Sur.

Veering away from old-school paper wrapping, their leading native cake, a repackaged version of the Vigan royal bibingka, comes in neat trays. Yes, Marsha’s Delicacies started a trend for more appealing local products. Clean is big in their vocabulary.

It usually takes me long to decide which stuff to bring home. As of late, sighted new items like crisp sesame seed-laced opia from San Juan, tubes of Vigan masa pudrida, colorful sayote atchara from Benguet; also select goodies from my hometown, Ilocos Norte, like Banna rice coffee, Adams bugnay wine, sorghum natural sweetener, Pasuquin Bakery biscocho; and other unpredictable items from parts beyond Ilocos.

The coffee shop is now serving modern flavored coolers in addition to indigenous refreshments like miki and sinanglao.

What about Ilocos bagnet and longaniza? Keen Marsha Navarro Chua just knows how to pack her shop significantly.

Photographed by Blauearth © Blauearth™ All Rights Reserved 2009-2013

Reny and I found ourselves in Sinait, Ilocos Sur, on a Sunday morning. It was our initial visit at the Sto. Cristo Milagroso Sanctuary, St. Nicholas of Tolentino Parish. A fine day!

Devotedly referred to as Apo Lakay, the Miraculous Statue of the Black Nazarene and Badoc’s  La Virgen Milagrosa were believed to be drifting in the sea when they were discovered by fishermen in Dadalaquiten, Sinait,  in 1620. The story of the two statues will very well fascinate you if you are an avid follower of the Catholic faith. In the time the Virgin Mary was moved to Badoc, the Apo Lakay remained in Sinait and keeps attracting pilgrims from across the country.

Across the old church, we walked to the hilera of turo-turo eateries. They are the same carinderias that travel to the “Dayo” of Badoc and Batac on certain days.  Have I told you, turo-turo means point-point? Literally, you point to the viands of your choice. The food is native Ilocano, with lots of meat alongside monggo gisa, pinakbet, inabraw, native pancit, rabong and a lot more. I satisfied myself with a hot bowl of sinanglao (a term used by the south for paksiw) at Luzminda’s Kitchenette. I had to ask around for good sinanglao. The pieces of beef were rather chunky. The sourness of the soup was typically Ilocano with a lavish dose of sukang Iloco. The lady let me taste her beef tapa. Yum! It didn’t look fried like we do ours.

I hope you’ll like the photos. A beautiful week ahead, everyone!

Photographed by Blauearth © Blauearth™ All Rights Reserved 2009-2013

Vigan, otherwise known as the living museum of the Philippines, is among the 28 finalists of the New 7 Wonder Cities, as announced by Bernard Weber, Founder-President of New7Wonders, which aims at documenting and conserving works of monuments worldwide.

Vigan’e unparalleled efforts in preserving heritage, history and culture are globally acclaimed. The capital city of Ilocos Sur was also awarded “Best practice in World Heritage Site Management” by the UN Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) last year.

From a longlist of 77 cities (which included Cebu and Iloilo), the shortlisted cities will now undergo three elimination phases determined by public voting through the New7Wonders website, which will end on December 7, 2014.

The 28 finalists:

Athens, Greece
Bangkok, Thailand
Barcelona, Spain
Beirut, Lebanon
Casablanca, Morocco
Chicago, USA
Doha, Qatar
Durban, South Africa
Havana, Cuba
Ho Chi Minh City, Viet Nam
Istanbul, Turkey
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Kyoto, Japan
La Paz, Bolivia
London, United Kingdom
Mendoza, Argentina
Mexico City, Mexico
Mumbai, India
Perth, Australia
Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Prague, the Czech Republic
Quito, Ecuador
Reykjavik, Iceland
St. Petersburg, Russia
Seoul, South Korea
Shenzhen, China
Vancouver, Canada
Vigan, Philippines

Photographed by Blauearth © Blauearth™ All Rights Reserved 2009-2013

Yesterday was a great day to explore the second most northern town in Ilocos Sur. Only then did I discover that Cabugao is home to the newest surfing destination in the north. Through the twists and turns of the Salomague Road, with no signs, it was easy ending up in another village. The locals were helpful, however, in leading us to Sabang. To surfers, the quiet, less crowded Sabang is Kido’s Point, named after its pioneer surfer, Ronald “Kido” Cabasug.

Kido was trained by visiting Australian surfer, Rene Hodgens, in 1993. He continues to be the big influence in the growing culture in the fishing village where surfboards are paddled most, next to bancas. The swells from the north and south produce quality waves.

Kido heads the group of Sabang surfers known as Surfing Ilocos. A local competition around the coast  is slated this Saturday. They also teach beginners the sport. (For inquiries, contact Kido Cabasug at his number, 0905 778 4292.)

Next year, the group is again also assisting the Philippine Surfing Federation with a national event scheduled on January 28-February 2.

No waves, no glory. ‘Tis the season to get stoked in Sabang.

The youngest, cutest surfer in Sabang.

I’d go boating to St. Benedict Island, a private island off the coast of Sabang, when the winds are down.

Other Points of Interest in Cabugao

At the side of the Cabugao Municipal Hall is the St. Mark the Evangelist Church.

Not too far from the surfing capital of Sur is the historically significant Salomague Port and fishing village. Salomague Port was the foremost entry point of the Japanese Imperial Army during the WWII Japanese Invasion.

The Sakada Centennial Memorial, situated in Salomague, was built in commemoration of the first Ilocanos who left for Hawaii in 1906 to work as sakadas in sugar cane plantations. In Ilocos, the old-timers and their descendants are commonly referred to as Hawaiinos.

Sundown at Pug-os Beach, known for its white pebble sands. Beach resorts can be found around the area.

*With special thanks to Barangay Captain Eduardo Cobangbang, Sr. Ronald “Kido” Cabasug and the friendly surfers of Sabang.

Photographed by Blauearth © Blauearth™ All Rights Reserved 2009-2013

There’s something to be stoked about on the 1st of February! The dragons are coming! The dragon boat race exhibition is just one of the highlights at the upcoming Ilocos Sur Beach Fest. Soak in the sun for an action overload with surfing, kiteboarding, frisbee and volleyball competitions. Intayon!

Photos from Duchess Francine Gamboa-Co and Blauearth
© Blauearth™ All Rights Reserved 2009-2014

The first Sun Soaked on the warm sandy beaches of Cabugao and Magsingal brought both jolt and encouragement to the otherwise serene coastal villages at the northern end of Ilocos Sur. Without much fanfare prior to its staging, the festival of sea, sand and sun challenges that included kiteboarding, surfing, beach volleyball, frisbee and dragon boat racing was able to attract droves of beach sports enthusiasts from the National Capital Region and the capital of beach events, where else but Boracay?

I lingered at the Cabugao Beach Resort to cheer for the PDRT Fireblades, one among the country’s leading dragon boat teams that made the 8 slots for the first ever dragon boat race on the shores of Ilocos. The race was held in cooperation with the Philippine Canoe and Kayak Federation, headed by Ms. Jonne Go.

As head organizer of Sun Soaked, Congressman Ronald Singson of the 1st District of Ilocos Sur mingled with the participants, and along with brother Gov. Ryan Singson, they hosted an after beach party and concert following the awarding ceremonies.

Cong. Ronald said when asked if Sun Soaked is the start of more sports activities to come in Ilocos Sur, “Yes, this is going to be a yearly thing. With our many beautiful beaches, we see the potentials of fun events in Ilocos Sur.”

Looking back, Ilocos Sur has successfully organized individual sports competitions, particularly motocross and enduro dirt bike challenges.

I crossed paths with the Sports Unlimited team covering the events. Hahah, first, it was Gene, the executive producer. Only until Marc Nelson holds the mic before the camera, he is incognito as always. I was happy the super friendly host remembers me and my family. The last time we hosted him and Dyan Castellejo in Norte was almost a decade ago.

A monk blesses the dragon boats on Pug-os Beach.

With Duch Gamboa-Co and Pinky Co, supportive mom to PDRT Fireblades paddlers Duch and Phil.

Moody winds threatened the races. La Salle’s boat overturned at one point, but made it back to the race.

Manila Wave beat Boracay All Stars at the 300m dragon boat race. PYROS came in close third while Manila Dragons made the 4th top spot.

Being an adventure junkie myself, looking forward to experience more action-packed events in the years to come.

Happy Kannawidan, Ilocos Sur!

Phil Co, an Ilocano paddler.

Photographed by Blauearth © Blauearth™ All Rights Reserved 2009-2014

If you think you’ve never heard of a Hotel Luna in Vigan before, it is because it officially opened just a few weeks ago. From the outside, you would mistake the newly painted old-and-simple-but-massive-structure for a villa or just another heritage hotel which is regulatory in the city that cares so much about heritage preservation.

A breath of fresh air greets you at the entrance. By Vigan standards, it feels queer in a beautiful way, I mean heritage with a twist — little modernities here and there and yet within the bounds of the city’s mantra.

Built in 1882, the property was a former residence, a gift of Ilocos Sur’s affluent Don Jose Florentino to his daughter.

From the roof deck, a fresh perspective of Vigan’s mansions and the St. Paul Cathedral.

Hotel Luna, named after the celebrated Ilocano painter Juan Luna, is the only luxury hotel in Vigan and the only museum hotel in Northern Luzon. A marriage of both worlds, it is not just a museum of antiquities, but a gallery of contemporary art as well. Artworks by national artists and remarkable painters speak so much about the art leanings of the owners, the same family that own Rembrandt Hotel in Manila and Le Monet in Baguio. You’d find an Amorsolo, Juan Lunas, a painting by Cory Quirino and so much more. Something we were forbidden to see is a roomful of precious art pieces — very private, according to our very engaging tour guide Melvin Martinez.

Rooms are posh. Soft upholstered headboards punctuate loft suites and the deluxe, superior and standard rooms, while a four poster and a porcelain bathtub make the low-key executive suite. A paradigm shift is de riguer in the bar and the outside spaces.

The warmth of the place is inviting. I live next door so to speak, but I’d love to experience an overnight stay in Vigan and it would be my first if ever.

The hotel manager, Robert Ferrer, at the Chula Bar. Btw, he was so accommodating.

The  eye-catching  3D historical mural was done by world-famous artist Rene Robles. Along with the country’s art gliterati, he was at the hotel’s inauguration early this month.

La Mandolinera (The Violin Player) by Juan Luna.

*With special thanks to Mr. Robert Ferrer, Melvin Martinez and the rest of the wonderful staff.

Hotel Luna V. de los Reyes cor. Gem Luna Sts, Vigan City, Ilocos Sur, Philippines 2700 Tel No.: 632 373 3333 loc 201 email: sales.artstream@gmail.com http://www.hotelluna.ph

Photographed by Blauearth © Blauearth™ All Rights Reserved 2009-2014

People come to Ilocos commonly for its distinct landscapes with cultural and natural charms. For the first time, I did an all-heritage trail with my Manila-based in-laws. They crave the flavors of old Ilocos.

There’s so much to admire about the richness of Ilocos’s past and present. Vigan wasn’t shortlisted for the New 7 Wonders Cities of the World for nothing.

Ilocos Norte’s Paoay Church is likewise among the UNESCO Heritage Sites in the country.

In the town of Currimao, a heritage village by the sea was built by Dr. Joven Cuanang. Named Sitio Remedios, it comprises several moved and restored houses from the different towns of Ilocos, and its own kapilya (chapel).

Burnay-making in Vigan

For lunch, we went to Kusina Felicitas (in Vigan) and savored mongo’t bagnet, pipian, Vigan longaniza, igado and crispy pata.

Avocado sorbetes awaited us at Calle Crisologo.

For pasalubong, we headed directly to the source of Ilocos cornik or chichacorn like how Nana Rosa brands her famous chichirya.

Below are photos taken at Sitio Remedios. So refreshing in this day and age.

Photographed by Blauearth © Blauearth™ All Rights Reserved 2009-2014

The heart of the southern district of Iloco Sur is the thriving city of Candon, also known as “The Tobacco Capital of The Philippines.” You’d still find several old houses like the ones in Vigan, though not as many. A huge house on Castro St. (parallel to the National Highway) was transformed into a cool cafe by Chef Owen Abaya. Named Cafe Bossa, it must be about a decade old. Over the years, there’s more space and the menu has developed, with Ilocano dishes like pinakbet and sapsapuriket highlighted, along with contemporary favorites such as Korean beef stew and pastas. In its early years, I was always drawn to this appetizing pasta with Ilocos longaniza.

In our case, it takes perfect timing or luck to get to Candon at mealtime. When traveling, ordinarily, hunger strikes in Vigan or in San Fernando, La Union.

We tried an eclectic medley of al a jillo-style Ilocano lomo-lomo, crispy binagoongan, lemon porkchop with bacalao rice and  pasta puttanesca.

Native lomo-lomo (porkloin and liver soup) was reconstructed into a rich, semi-thick broth, with lots of garlic, a hint of olive oil and one whole egg. The tenderest pork, overflowing with flavors just turned into my potential comfort food.

The pasta puttanesca was simple and light in contrast with the spicy binagoongan and porkchop and rice spiced with salted dried cod, a rather curious combination, but nevertheless everything just blended in.

The banoffee pie came last. Layers upon layers of varying sweetness. Too sweet at first bite, but it grows on you. The best part was the meringue top and the thick pressed cookie crust.

Picked a few bottles of bottled Bacalao and spicy tuyo which I’m trying with pasta today.

Brandon still remembers the joint.

My baldoza tile photo collection is growing:)

Photographed by Blauearth © Blauearth™ All Rights Reserved 2009-2014

Some things in life are not cheap, hahah, they cost time and calories. Like Leehua and Marion love to say, live a little, and so we traveled to Vigan to examine closely the biggest burger north of Manila.

The monstrous R12 Burger, measuring 11 inches in diameter and 4 inches tall, is the attraction of Kusina de Kenyong, owned by Kenley Rodillas Filarca, although the restobar is also known for its Ilocano fusion pastas, highlighting the Vigan longaniza.

The hamburger can feed the whole tourist bus! It’s stuffed with a 1-kilo beef patty that tastes like a flattened meatball. The bread is kinda massive and overwhelms. They grill the bread and meat, so it’s not really soggy. The burger we had is not the biggest burger on the menu.  They also have another one with a 2-kilo beef patty.

You will also see on the menu the tiniest burgers. Hahah, I’m still on the edge. Can’t type much.

We browsed and picked some things at the MC3 store. It’s actually a cool place for fun fashion items.

Kusina de Kenyong Calle Salcedo, Vigan City, Philippines Tel. No.: (77)259 9359 CP No.: 017 558 5256

Photographed by Marion and Blauearth
© Blauearth™ All Rights Reserved 2009-2014

Freedom, they say, is both a curse and a blessing. To the anxiety of my housemates, my instinctive ability to take to the road will never be tamed (like photographer Marianne Pasion says about me here, pretty embarassed).

As I recoil from crafty Frankenstein-like writing, seaming together a story about fresh ways to enjoy the Ilocos provinces, both here in Norte and Sur, for the October 2014 issue of Mabuhay Magazine (the Philippine Airlines’ in-flight read), was not a cinch.

I haven’t read the magazine, I saw snippets from a stewardess friend’s phone, so I’m starting anew with the story of my journey to Narvacan.

A rainbow on a cloud.

I didn’t know the whereabouts of NOAH, hence I picked the oldest manong tricycle driver waiting at the curb in the centro of Narvacan. All heart, he was heaven-sent. As we approached Bulanos Beach, Bantay Abot (not to be confused with the Bantay Abot Cave in Paqudpud) towered more and more upon my sight.

A container van structure facing the beach beckons. The sun was fast going down. While manong parked his tricycle, I entered the doors, my eyes wandered around the stark white room and as fast as I could, I introduced myself as a writer and photographer for the magazine.

The 250-meter via ferrata adventure at NOAH. Screengrab from Direk Arman on YouTube

The Narvacan Outdoor Adventure Hub or NOAH has made via ferrata its hallmark. Via ferrata is a passage through a steep rock wall, aided with harness and anchor cables that secure the climber from a fall, so it might be as well safe, unless, of course, the person has extreme fear of heights. As I had already rappelled from a chopper, a worm’s eye view from the foot of the hill was just the same intimidating. (Learn the ropes of via ferrata in the video below.)

I ran around the vicinity. I imagine, after letting out a hurrah and sucking in a bird’s eye view of Bulanos from the peak of Bantay Abot, one can rappel back down and enjoy the other thrills of NOAH as kayaking, paddle boarding, ziplining, and kitesurfing are within reach.

The lounge and cafe.

The appeal of Bulanos Beach is in its bucolic scenery and sedate locality. One of these days, I’m heading back to NOAH to get on that iron path.

Back at the center of Narvacan. UNESCO World Heritage Site Vigan is about 30-45 minutes north of Narvacan.

With special thanks to the Narvacan Outdoor Adventure Hub, Mayor Zuriel Zaragoza, Ace Corrales, Eastgate Publishing and the wonderful staff of NOAH.

NOAH (Narvacan Outdoor Adventure Hub) Bulanos, Bulanos Beach, Narvacan, Ilocos Sur CP No. 0905 3396624 Facebook page

Photographed by Blauearth © Blauearth™ All Rights Reserved 2009-2014